I have had a request for tips on derailer and gear set up. So a little cheat, please check out the links, for all the information you are likely to need.
Please take time to check your tubes and pump this time of year. If you have been carrying a spare tube for a long time, take time to check it out, try pumping it up and see if it still holds air. Try to carry two tubes if you can, on your training rides.
Finally check out your pump, (through personal experience). Internal rubber valves tend to go brittle in the colder weather, and you will be lucky to get 10 psi in your tyre. Stick a new one on the pressy list. Always carry your pump, punctures always happen when its wet, cold and far from home, and usually when you are on your own.
Saddle posts
Ever had a creak or a click, you just can't trace. It could be coming from your seat / saddle post. The best solution is to remove it from the frame, clean with a product like WD 40, including the inside of the seat stay where the seat post fits. Also remove the clamp and clean. Once all parts are clean and dry, you can re fix the seat post. With steel or alloy posts, apply a thin layer of grease, with carbon posts, Do not use grease, instead try a dusting of talc, or spray with hair spray (not both, horrible mess), this seems to stop carbon posts from creaking.
Wheels and Brakes:- need attention at this time of year, with the wetter roads, wet leaves and ice etc.
So step by step.
1 Remove wheels, deflate tyres and remove from rims, remove inner tube. With the rims exposed, check for any damage on the top edge, which would have been under the tyre. Any rough edges can be rubbed down with wet and dry paper, or an aluminum rubbing stone. The breaking surface of the rims should also be checked, some newer wheels have wear indicator lines, below the surface a couple of millimetres, if these are exposed and worn away, it is time to change the wheels. To clean the breaking surface of the rim, use the wet and dry fine paper, to take off any high spots and grease and rubber deposits. Once complete wash rims and dry completely.
2 Check the rim tape ( inside the rim usually plastic or cloth). The rim tape protects the spokes from puncturing the inner tube. Check to make sure no spoke ends are wearing through, and tape is sitting central all the way around.
3 Check your tyres for any splits or cracks in the side wall. Side wall cracks can only be noticed with the tyre off the rim. If the tyre feels weak on the sides when compressed, they may need changing, possible failure of tyre, blow outs on high speed corners. Flints or glass particles tend to embed themselves in the tyre tread or rolling surface. Check out any splits, and remove debris from inside, a small screwdriver or bradle is ideal. To repair the split dab the open cut with some super glue and join back together. Leave the glue to set for an hour, before re fitting tube and tyre back on wheel.
BRAKES.
While the wheels are still off the bike, time to inspect the brake blocks. Remove the complete brake block from the caliper, by undoing the centre allen key nut, on the outside of the block. Do one at a time, so as to replace the brake block into the same position. Check the braking pad surface. On most pads there are grooves in the surface, these act in two ways, one to clear water and the other as a wear indicator. If the grooves are worn away, it is time to change the pads. To change pads, you need to undo the small 2mm allen lock screw located on the same side as the fixing bolt, towards the back end. The old pads can then be pushed out of the open end of the block. Compare the pad with the new one, as they have a slight curve and will only fit their correct side ( unless you force them). Make sure the brake block is clean especially the grooves that the new pads lock under. Tap the pad into position, as far as it will go. Screw in the new allen lock screw ( supplied with new pads) this should screw completely down, if it doesn't the pad is not properly located. Make sure the brake adjusters are slackened off. Attach completed brake block back to brake caliper. Work around all 4 brake blocks, one at a time. Once completed and with the wheels back on the bike, you need to align the brakes. Start on the back brakes, apply the brakes and slide the brake blocks into position to sit central on the wheel rim, make sure they are not sitting too high, so as to rub on the tyre. Once you are happy both sides are equal and central, apply more pressure on brake lever to hold the brakes in position while you tighten the allen nut. Adjust brake adjuster so as there is about a 2mm gap between pad and rim. Spin wheel to make sure it runs free, and make any final adjustments. Repeat for front wheel. Do a short road test and re check alignment and allen nut for tightness.
